Body & Appearance (12)
In April 2010, we ordered LED halos with the voltage regulator from Flashtech USA, a competitor to Advanced Automotive Concepts and a vendor at LXForums.com. On the 27th, our white LED halos arrived. We also got some 3M two way tape, 3M Adhesive/sealant, and some new gloves.

We used two way tape for the halo's. I didn't want to use epoxy. (more green!)

Next is the removal of the headlights.
Remove all the pushpins on the top of the fascia. Remove the plastic rad support covers.

Use a 9/32" nut driver to remove the two screws. The front facia will need to be pulled forward a bit to get the headlight out, thats why the push pins need to come out.


The Oven.
We baked the lights one at a time- 25 minutes at 275 Degrees. All of the sealant needs to soften up so the clear front will seperate from the housing.

Once they came out, we used a screwdriver and began to pry the housing off. This is why I needed new gloves. Pry all around the housing and loosen up the sealant the best you can. Then you can grab a corner, pull and seperate and work your way around the light.



We removed the reflectors and gave them a couple of coats of the spray tint. The tabs can be popped out on the backside of the housing.

Installing the halos.
New we took each halo, and figured out where to drill for the wiring. Each halo on both sides will be in a different spot, so if you drill in one spot on one light, it won't be the same for the other headlight. Then we peeled away to two way tape and attached each halo. Gently push it on but be careful not to break the PCB holding all the LEDS. I think you'd need to reef on it pretty hard to break it though. Now would be a good time to hook them up to power to make sure everything works properly.


Here they are attached to the housings. We also used some Windex brand glass cleaner and a soft paper towel to clean all the silver. I had some water spots in there from when I drilled in to install the strobes and flushed the housing out with water.

Here's the wires coming out the back.

We used a heat gun to clean off the old sealant on our lenses. We used an upholstery tool to peel the old adhesive away from the lenses. It worked perfectly.

Drill a hole in the back housing so the wiring can exit the headlight.

We laid a bead of the 3M sealant on the housing, and attached the lens. Once it was all tight, we applied a bead of sealant around the lens.

Then we used come cables to keep it all tight while it all cured.

Halo Wiring
The Flashtech system came with a voltage regulator. Some folks over at LXForums decided this was a good way to keep the voltage constant to the LEDS- these are electronics after all so a voltage regulator makes perfect sense when you think of it. You can run all the LED's off it, and also later install the halo fog lights to the regulator. We had to run a new ground for the regulator. When doing wiring- do it right the first time!

The regulator isn't sealed, so we used velcro to mount it to the backside of the radiator. UPDATE- The new plan is to get a plastic project case from Radio Shack to encase the regulator. A perfect solution.


The Finished Product!




In March 2010, we got this coolant tank cover off a forum member from custommagnums.com. It covers the coolant tank and the power steering resivoir. It's purpose is for looks only.
We got it and at first painted it, but I wasn't happy with the finish. Then I used the same vinyl I used for the firewall cover, so I wrapped it.
Here's some photos.

And the slideshow version. Click one...
We wanted to remove the rear windshield wiper for a couple of reasons.
1: We never use it, and
2: It looks so much better with a shaved rear
We began by removing the inside hatch plastic cover by removing the two screws that are inside the handle used to close the hatch.

Once they are out, grab the plastic cover and pull it down. It's held in place by several clips. Disconnect the plug to the light.

Next you can remove the bolt that holds on the rear wiper. Remove the wiper by pulling it straight off. It might be rusted on and need some force. Mine came right off.

Inside the hatch, disconnect the plug that powers the wiper motor. Then remove the three bolts that hold the motor in place. Then pull out the entire assembly.

Remove the rubber grommet and your hole will be ready.

We went to the local hardware store and bought a 1" plastic plug. We really need a 1 1/4 inch but they didn't have any. We'll continue to look but for now this 1" will just barely fit.

Clean the plug with some laquer thinner, prep it with plastic primer, and give it the paint, followed by the clearcoat. Pop it in the hole and you should have a cleaner look.

My eyebrows were ordered on May 1st 2009 and they came on May 16th. I found the vendor from custommagnums.com
and placed an order. I bought them off eBay.
I also have the Mopar touch up paint. The cheapest place I could find the 5oz areosol can was- yes- the dealership. Everywhere online was expensive. I got two cans from the dealer for the price of 1 with shipping from most online vendors. 
The eyebrows came with 2 way tape on the backside. I did a few coats with the Cool Vanilla, then a few coats of Mopar clear. I decided to also order a can of Mopar clear because I heard stores about the color changing with clear from a different vendor. I just decided to keep it all the same.
One picture has a rubber peice. This is pushing the headlight out because it sits in too far (from the factory) and the eyebrow had a smaller gap between the eyebrow itself and the hood/fender. Pushing the headlight bucket out a bit made it more of a gap, evening out the two headlights.
Here are some shots. Click any image for a larger view. Click the left or right side of the photo to scroll through.
I finally did it and removed the moulding. I have been back and forth on this for a while. I've seen a lot of mags on CustomMagnums.com
and everyone was really happy with the look after they did it. If anything, it can always be put back on, so no real loss if I don't like how it looks.
Today was a warm day. 25ºC or 80 something F. Here is a before picture with the moulding.

First things first was getting the hair dryer out for some added warmth.

Carefully pull. Go SLOW, you don't want the paint to bubble underneath.


I found some moulding had MUD underneath it. I did wash my car prior, but still...Now I'm glad I took it off.

Use a good quality adhesive remover. I used Oops untill I ran out, then went and bought some of this Goo Gone. I liked the Oops better. Also, instead of using a fingernail to help remove some of the adhesive (but you will still have to for some of the smaller bits) I used a plastic spreader to help peel the left over two way tape from the paint. Once it was all off and clean, I finished up with some Simple Green to clean.

Once it was all cleaned off, a good couple of coats of my favorite wax was laid down on all the doors. And thats about all.

Here are some shots. Click any image for a larger view. Click the left or right side of the photo to scroll through.
We ordered a new grill for the mag. It was in a pretty small box, and we was expecting a larger package. The grill came in as four peices with mounting hardware.

I started by removing the black radiator cover. It just pops out as it's held in with three clips on each side.

The front fascia has 6 push pins on the top. Use a upholstery tool to pop them up. If you don't have one, use a screwdriver and some needle nose pliers to pull them out. Save the two middle push pins untill the very last, you'll need them up to prevent the fascia from potentially falling off after everything is out.

There are some fender clips on each side- three with a push pin at the bottom. Do whatever you need to get them out intact- all of mine got destroyed so I'll be getting some new ones. (After I get my fog lights) Note the awesome 20" Hankook tires and painted calipers!

Once they are out, there's a 10mm bolt that holds the fascia to the fender. Remove it.

Underneath the car there are 10 belly pan screws. Remove them with a 7mm socket.

Now the good part. Tug on each corner of the fascia and it will pop off. This is why we left two push pins in place up top. This picture was taken after I removed them. I also have a rag under the corner. You might want to use a couple of old towels or blanket to set the fascia on so it doesn't get scratched.

I took the fascia to the grass where it wouldn't get scratched. There's some screws on the bottom that need to come off.

I put in the new peices. Small problem however- these grill peices didn't exactly mesh perfect with my fascia. I had to rig them in.What do you expect for $23 including shipping?

Here is is with the peices in. Some say I'm too young to drive- screw them.


*UPDATE*
The top grill was installed in May 2009. In October 2009, we ordered the lower grill peices. They arrived and we installed them the same way the top peices were. The facia was removed and the two lower peices installed.




While we had it all apart, we painted the backing peice of the Ram logo on the front.

Here are some shots. Click any image for a larger view. Click the left or right side of the photo to scroll through. There's some photos here that are not shown above.
In late December 2009, we decided to roll the fenders. When we had the car lowered in the summer and fall, we managed to clip a fender and mess it up with the front wheel. With the Eastwood Fender Roller (which we rented from Ken at 3G Customz
) we got the lip tucked in nice and tight, giving us about a 1/2 inch of additional clearance.
Watch the video we found on YouTube. It's the best explanation on using this tool we could find.
We didn't do all the way to the rocker, mainly the area between the arrows where the tire is most likely to clip.

Don't forget to use plenty of heat to soften up the paint, or it WILL crack!

Once the lights were out, I had to find a good place to install them. Whelen recommends their strobes be placed a minimum of 1 inch away from any other surface. Once I got the taillights out I found a good place to put the strobe heads. Their in the main taillight housing (top) and an inch away from any surface. I drilled a 7/8 hole for the light, and put the bulb in.






Headlight removal

Once the headlights (and bulbs) are out, find the center spot inside the housing. Use visual clues and the lines on the housing itself to help find the center. There's a couple of things you NEED to know.

Installation is reverse from dis-assembly.
Installing the switching system










One of the first things done was debadging. What is debadging? It’s taking off all the factory applied emblems. I usually debadge my vehicles, although I haven’t done the Envoy (yet). I like it because it’s a clean look.
Debadging is a pretty simple process. Wait for a nice warm day. Get a blowdrier and warm up the emblem or logo. You might be able to just pull it off once it’s warm and you can feel the adhesive is pliable.
However, I recommend getting a container of dental floss for the smaller letters on the hatch. Dental floss is soft on the paint and cheap. It won’t cause damage to the finish. Take the floss and work it behind the emblem. You might have to keep warming up the emblem with the blowdrier, but thats ok. The softer it all is, the better.
Once you “saw” through it with the dental floss and it pops off, get some Goo Gone
and start rubbing. It will take a while, but it’s the best solution to getting the adhesive off the paint. Don’t use any paint thinner, gasoline or laquer thinner. Those are too hot and will remove clearcoat. Goo Gone is safe for your finish.
Finish off the job with some soap and water. Follow by wax and polish.

In February 2010, we ordered and recieved a firewall cover from 3G Customz
. A firewall cover is merely a peice that fits up against your firewall in behind your motor, hiding all the piping and wiring in your engine bay. It's purpose is asthetic only.

We began to color match it with Mopar paint, but decided to wrap it in vinyl instead.

We placed the cover on the vinyl and traced around it.

Next we cut around it leaving about a half of an inch of extra.

We peeled off the backing ans applied it, then we flipped it over and smoothed out any bubbles that were in it, much like when you tint glass.

Then we wrapped the vinyl around the edges for a smooth look.

When we were done, we installed. The cover comes with small holes to use to screw it into the brace it sits up against. We also removed the cabin air filter cover when we installed it for a nice flush finish.



Click the images below for a larger slideshow.