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Body & Appearance

Body & Appearance (12)

Wednesday, 28 April 2010 06:42

LED Halos

Written by Rob

In April 2010, we ordered LED halos with the voltage regulator from Flashtech USA, a competitor to Advanced Automotive Concepts and a vendor at LXForums.com. On the 27th, our white LED halos arrived. We also got some 3M two way tape, 3M Adhesive/sealant, and some new gloves.

 

HALO kit

 

We used two way tape for the halo's. I didn't want to use epoxy. (more green!)

2 Way Tape  Flashtech Halos

 

Next is the removal of the headlights.

 

Remove all the pushpins on the top of the fascia. Remove the plastic rad support covers.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum Halo Installation

 

Use a 9/32" nut driver to remove the two screws. The front facia will need to be pulled forward a bit to get the headlight out, thats why the push pins need to come out.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum Halo Installation

Flashtech Dodge Magnum Halo Installation Flashtech Dodge Magnum Halo Installation

 

The Oven.

We baked the lights one at a time- 25 minutes at 275 Degrees. All of the sealant needs to soften up so the clear front will seperate from the housing.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

Once they came out, we used a screwdriver and began to pry the housing off. This is why I needed new gloves. Pry all around the housing and loosen up the sealant the best you can. Then you can grab a corner, pull and seperate and work your way around the light.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

We removed the reflectors and gave them a couple of coats of the spray tint. The tabs can be popped out on the backside of the housing.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

Installing the halos.

New we took each halo, and figured out where to drill for the wiring. Each halo on both sides will be in a different spot, so if you drill in one spot on one light, it won't be the same for the other headlight. Then we peeled away to two way tape and attached each halo. Gently push it on but be careful not to break the PCB holding all the LEDS. I think you'd need to reef on it pretty hard to break it though. Now would be a good time to hook them up to power to make sure everything works properly.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

Here they are attached to the housings. We also used some Windex brand glass cleaner and a soft paper towel to clean all the silver. I had some water spots in there from when I drilled in to install the strobes and flushed the housing out with water.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

Here's the wires coming out the back.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

We used a heat gun to clean off the old sealant on our lenses. We used an upholstery tool to peel the old adhesive away from the lenses. It worked perfectly.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

Drill a hole in the back housing so the wiring can exit the headlight.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

We laid a bead of the 3M sealant on the housing, and attached the lens. Once it was all tight, we applied a bead of sealant around the lens.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

Then we used come cables to keep it all tight while it all cured.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

Halo Wiring

The Flashtech system came with a voltage regulator. Some folks over at LXForums decided this was a good way to keep the voltage constant to the LEDS- these are electronics after all so a voltage regulator makes perfect sense when you think of it. You can run all the LED's off it, and also later install the halo fog lights to the regulator. We had to run a new ground for the regulator. When doing wiring- do it right the first time!

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

The regulator isn't sealed, so we used velcro to mount it to the backside of the radiator. UPDATE- The new plan is to get a plastic project case from Radio Shack to encase the regulator. A perfect solution.

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

The Finished Product!

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos

Flashtech Magnum LED Halos

Dodge Magnum LED Halos

 

 

 

 

 

Flashtech Dodge Magnum LED Halos
Sunday, 25 April 2010 20:28

3G Coolant Tank

Written by Rob

In March 2010, we got this coolant tank cover off a forum member from custommagnums.com. It covers the coolant tank and the power steering resivoir. It's purpose is for looks only.

 

We got it and at first painted it, but I wasn't happy with the finish. Then I used the same vinyl I used for the firewall cover, so I wrapped it.

 

Here's some photos.

 

3G Coolant Tank 3G Coolant Tank  Dodge Magnum Engine Bay Dodge Magnum Engine Bay

 

And the slideshow version. Click one...

 

 

Sunday, 06 September 2009 17:00

Deleted Rear Wiper

Written by Rob

We wanted to remove the rear windshield wiper for a couple of reasons.

 

1: We never use it, and

2: It looks so much better with a shaved rear

 

We began by removing the inside hatch plastic cover by removing the two screws that are inside the handle used to close the hatch.

 

two screws

 

Once they are out, grab the plastic cover and pull it down. It's held in place by several clips. Disconnect the plug to the light.

 

inside

 

Next you can remove the bolt that holds on the rear wiper. Remove the wiper by pulling it straight off. It might be rusted on and need some force. Mine came right off.

 

Rear Windshield Wiper

 

Inside the hatch, disconnect the plug that powers the wiper motor. Then remove the three bolts that hold the motor in place. Then pull out the entire assembly.

 

rear wiper motor

 

Remove the rubber grommet and your hole will be ready.

 

rear wiper grommet

 

We went to the local hardware store and bought a 1" plastic plug. We really need a 1 1/4 inch but they didn't have any. We'll continue to look but for now this 1" will just barely fit.

 

plastic plug

 

Clean the plug with some laquer thinner, prep it with plastic primer, and give it the paint, followed by the clearcoat. Pop it in the hole and you should have a cleaner look.

 

shaved1 shaved2

 

 

 

 

 

Saturday, 02 May 2009 17:00

Headlight Eyebrows

Written by Rob

 

My eyebrows were ordered on May 1st 2009 and they came on May 16th. I found the vendor from custommagnums.comcustommagnums.com and placed an order. I bought them off eBay.I bought them off eBay.

 

I also have the Mopar touch up paint. The cheapest place I could find the 5oz areosol can was- yes- the dealership. Everywhere online was expensive. I got two cans from the dealer for the price of 1 with shipping from most online vendors. from most online vendors.

 

The eyebrows came with 2 way tape on the backside. I did a few coats with the Cool Vanilla, then a few coats of Mopar clear. I decided to also order a can of Mopar clear because I heard stores about the color changing with clear from a different vendor. I just decided to keep it all the same.

 

One picture has a rubber peice. This is pushing the headlight out because it sits in too far (from the factory) and the eyebrow had a smaller gap between the eyebrow itself and the hood/fender. Pushing the headlight bucket out a bit made it more of a gap, evening out the two headlights.

 

Here are some shots. Click any image for a larger view. Click the left or right side of the photo to scroll through.

 

 

 

Thursday, 21 May 2009 17:00

Side Molding

Written by Rob

 

I finally did it and removed the moulding. I have been back and forth on this for a while. I've seen a lot of mags on CustomMagnums.comCustomMagnums.com and everyone was really happy with the look after they did it. If anything, it can always be put back on, so no real loss if I don't like how it looks.

 

Today was a warm day. 25ºC or 80 something F. Here is a before picture with the moulding.

 

Before with the moulding

 

First things first was getting the hair dryer out for some added warmth.

Using some heat

 

Carefully pull. Go SLOW, you don't want the paint to bubble underneath.

Slowly peel SLOWLY peel it back

During the procedure

 

I found some moulding had MUD underneath it. I did wash my car prior, but still...Now I'm glad I took it off.

Mud under the moulding

 

Use a good quality adhesive remover. I used Oops untill I ran out, then went and bought some of this Goo Gone. I liked the Oops better. Also, instead of using a fingernail to help remove some of the adhesive (but you will still have to for some of the smaller bits) I used a plastic spreader to help peel the left over two way tape from the paint. Once it was all off and clean, I finished up with some Simple Green to clean.

Cleaner

 

Once it was all cleaned off, a good couple of coats of my favorite wax was laid down on all the doors. And thats about all.

After photo #1 After the moulding was removed. After the moulding was removed.

 

Here are some shots. Click any image for a larger view. Click the left or right side of the photo to scroll through.

 


Thursday, 21 May 2009 17:00

Billet Grill

Written by Rob

 

We ordered a new grill for the mag. It was in a pretty small box, and we was expecting a larger package. The grill came in as four peices with mounting hardware.

 

box Billet Grill

 

I started by removing the black radiator cover. It just pops out as it's held in with three clips on each side.

Black Radiator Cover

 

The front fascia has 6 push pins on the top. Use a upholstery tool to pop them up. If you don't have one, use a screwdriver and some needle nose pliers to pull them out. Save the two middle push pins untill the very last, you'll need them up to prevent the fascia from potentially falling off after everything is out.

Fascia Push Pins Fascia Push Pins

 

There are some fender clips on each side- three with a push pin at the bottom. Do whatever you need to get them out intact- all of mine got destroyed so I'll be getting some new ones. (After I get my fog lights) Note the awesome 20" Hankook tires and painted calipers!

Inner Fender Clips Fender Snap Clips

 

Once they are out, there's a 10mm bolt that holds the fascia to the fender. Remove it.

10mm Socket needed to remove the bolt.

 

Underneath the car there are 10 belly pan screws. Remove them with a 7mm socket.

Belly Pan Screws

 

Now the good part. Tug on each corner of the fascia and it will pop off. This is why we left two push pins in place up top. This picture was taken after I removed them. I also have a rag under the corner. You might want to use a couple of old towels or blanket to set the fascia on so it doesn't get scratched.

Pop off the fascis Completely removed

 

I took the fascia to the grass where it wouldn't get scratched. There's some screws on the bottom that need to come off.

Unscrew the old grill Unscrew the old grill

 

I put in the new peices. Small problem however- these grill peices didn't exactly mesh perfect with my fascia. I had to rig them in.What do you expect for $23 including shipping?

Parts of the new grill

 

Here is is with the peices in. Some say I'm too young to drive- screw them.

reinstall

 

finished1 finished2

 

*UPDATE*

The top grill was installed in May 2009. In October 2009, we ordered the lower grill peices. They arrived and we installed them the same way the top peices were. The facia was removed and the two lower peices installed.

lower1 lower2

lower3 lower4

lower5 lower7

lower8

 

While we had it all apart, we painted the backing peice of the Ram logo on the front.

lower6

 

 

Here are some shots. Click any image for a larger view. Click the left or right side of the photo to scroll through. There's some photos here that are not shown above.

 


Tuesday, 29 December 2009 17:00

Fender Roller

Written by Rob

In late December 2009, we decided to roll the fenders. When we had the car lowered in the summer and fall, we managed to clip a fender and mess it up with the front wheel. With the Eastwood Fender Roller (which we rented from Ken at 3G Customz3G Customz) we got the lip tucked in nice and tight, giving us about a 1/2 inch of additional clearance.

 

Watch the video we found on YouTube. It's the best explanation on using this tool we could find.

 

 

We didn't do all the way to the rocker, mainly the area between the arrows where the tire is most likely to clip.

Fender Roller

 

 

Don't forget to use plenty of heat to soften up the paint, or it WILL crack!

Use lots of heat!!

 

 

 

 

Saturday, 04 July 2009 17:00

Whelen Strobe Lights

Written by Rob

 

In July 2009 I installed a set of corner Whelen strobe lights. I started out in the back and moved forward. This is how I did it.
First I had to remove the taillights. For a quick tutorial on their removal, visit here. For a quick tutorial on their removal, visit here. Once the lights were out, I had to find a good place to install them. Whelen recommends their strobes be placed a minimum of 1 inch away from any other surface. Once I got the taillights out I found a good place to put the strobe heads. Their in the main taillight housing (top) and an inch away from any surface. I drilled a 7/8 hole for the light, and put the bulb in.
rear_hole rear_installed 
Next you need to feed the wiring through the sheetmetal. Drill you hole big enough for your grommet, and MAKE SURE you use one. Running your wiring through sheetmetal by itself is a recipe for disaster and is a huge fire risk. Take the time to do it right.
lead
Now that part of running the wiring to the controller box comes next. I routed the wiring under the trim so none of it is seen. While you are running the wiring up to the front from the rear lights, it would be a good time to also do your power. I originally was going to put the strobe controller in the back of the car. You can't, because the cables for the front lights will not reach all the way to the box if it's in the back. I put the strobe power controller box under the drivers seat.
hide_wiring hide_wiring2
under_seat
The strobe power controller box needs it's own positive and negative power. I hooked those up directly to the power box in the trunk. As usual, make your wiring nice and neat. Don't forget to fuse it. We used a 20amp fuse.
power
So at this point you should have your rear strobes installed, the cables run to the middle of the car, your power leads run to the middle of the car, and your power supply location selected and the power supply installed.
Lets run the leads up to the front.

We need to run our strobe cables through the firewall. The best spot I found was on the drivers side underneath the windshield wiper linkage.

firewall1 firewall2
I ran the cables along side the cable for the hood latch, and along the front end using tie-wraps to keep it all in place.
front_cabling2 front_cabling1

Headlight removal

The headlights need to come out to get the holes drilled. I got mine out following the instructions in removing the front fascia. The only exception is I didn't remove all the small bolts on the bottom. On the headlight are two bolts.Remove them and the headlight assembly can be pulled straight out.
headlight1 headlight2

Once the headlights (and bulbs) are out, find the center spot inside the housing. Use visual clues and the lines on the housing itself to help find the center. There's a couple of things you NEED to know.
1: Again, keep the strobe at least an inch away from anything else.
2: The factory headlight housing is TWO layers.
I don't have a good picture of it, but drilling into the headlight housing can be tricky. Drill your hole with your hole saw like you did for the taillights For the first hole, drill it a size bigger than the actual size for the strobe. Once you've done that, you'll see there's another layer to drill through. This is where the strobe actually seats in the housing. Now you have to clean your housing. Use compressed air and blow out all the shavings and filings and get them out the bulb holes. It will probably be dusty inside. If your lucky and it isn't, then compressed air might be good enough. If it's still dusty, you might need to flush out your housing with DISTILLED water. If you use water, you won't be putting this all together today. It will need time to dry out, using a blow dryer and time to avoid condensation inside the housing at a later date.
Once the strobe is in, you'll have a gap between the layers that must be sealed up, because moisture will get in and the system is no longer sealed. For this, I cut out some plastic circles and used that to seal this up, along with silicone. Later on if the strobe needs replacing it will be an easy fix. You'll notice you can't see the strobe head at all. That's because it's hidden inside the housing between the layers.
silicone1 silicone2 front_strobe_head

Installation is reverse from dis-assembly.

Installing the switching system

Now we need to have the switching system hooked up. We have the power controller already under the rear seat, the power lines run to the rear, and the lights installed. We have two wires that come from the controller that go to your switching system. On my system, one was blue and one was green. They were run to the dash area. You'll also need to remove the lower dash cover. There is one screw underneath, and one on the side near the door hinge area.In the first picture, this lower trim should already be off.
trim1 trim2
I needed a 12V supply. I tapped into the cigarette lighter power, because I wanted it switched with the key. I ran the power under the dash.
powerlead dash_wiring1
The lower dash needed the switches. I drilled the needed holes and mounted the two switches. The top one if for the front, the bottom is for the rear.
holes1 switches1
I needed two relays- one for each switch. I mounted the relays on one of the under-dash braces and followed the instructions on the relay and switch schematics to wire it all up.
relays1 relays2
With that, the rest of the cables that were ran from the front to the power controller were hidden. Use an upholstery tool or flathead screwdriver to pull up the lugs that mount the carpet. Run your wiring and put it all back.
front_wiring1 front_wiring2
With that, use some tie-wraps to bundle your wires, put your trim back and make it all neat and clean.
completed_wiring controller
Test and enjoy!
UPDATE:

In February 2010, we installed two additional strobe heads in the reverse lights and two Sound Off Signals LED3's in the front grill. The front grill lights are synched together and are triggered with the front strobe bulbs.
Sound Off Signals Strobe Cables Whelen Strobe Lights
Dodge Magnum Bumper Removal Sound Off Signals LED3
Sound Off Signals LED3 Sound Off Signals LED3
Sound Off Signals LED3

To view any of the images above in a higher resolution, just click any thumbnail for a slideshow.

Saturday, 02 May 2009 17:00

Debadging

Written by Rob

One of the first things done was debadging. What is debadging? It’s taking off all the factory applied emblems. I usually debadge my vehicles, although I haven’t done the Envoy (yet). I like it because it’s a clean look.

 

Debadging is a pretty simple process. Wait for a nice warm day. Get a blowdrier and warm up the emblem or logo. You might be able to just pull it off once it’s warm and you can feel the adhesive is pliable.

 

However, I recommend getting a container of dental floss for the smaller letters on the hatch. Dental floss is soft on the paint and cheap. It won’t cause damage to the finish. Take the floss and work it behind the emblem. You might have to keep warming up the emblem with the blowdrier, but thats ok. The softer it all is, the better.

 

Once you “saw” through it with the dental floss and it pops off, get some Goo GoneGoo Gone and start rubbing. It will take a while, but it’s the best solution to getting the adhesive off the paint. Don’t use any paint thinner, gasoline or laquer thinner. Those are too hot and will remove clearcoat. Goo Gone is safe for your finish.

 

Finish off the job with some soap and water. Follow by wax and polish.

 

Debadged Rear Hatch

Thursday, 18 February 2010 23:31

3G Firewall Cover

Written by Rob

In February 2010, we ordered and recieved a firewall cover from 3G Customzfirewall cover from 3G Customz. A firewall cover is merely a peice that fits up against your firewall in behind your motor, hiding all the piping and wiring in your engine bay. It's purpose is asthetic only.

 

Magnum Firewall Cover

 

We began to color match it with Mopar paint, but decided to wrap it in vinyl instead.

3G Customz Firewall Cover

 

We placed the cover on the vinyl and traced around it.

3G Customz Firewall Cover

 

Next we cut around it leaving about a half of an inch of extra.

3G Customz Firewall Cover

 

We peeled off the backing ans applied it, then we flipped it over and smoothed out any bubbles that were in it, much like when you tint glass.

3G Customz Firewall Cover

 

Then we wrapped the vinyl around the edges for a smooth look.

3G Customz Firewall Cover

 

When we were done, we installed. The cover comes with small holes to use to screw it into the brace it sits up against. We also removed the cabin air filter cover when we installed it for a nice flush finish.

Magnum Firewall Cover Magnum Firewall Cover

 

Dodge Magnum Firewall Cover Dodge Magnum Firewall Cover

Dodge Magnum Firewall Cover

 

 Click the images below for a larger slideshow.